NuBilt Responding to Frozen Pipe Bursts (Video)

As the Denver Metro area experienced freezing cold temperatures for an extended period, many properties suffered from frozen pipe bursts. Channel 9 News Denver did a news segment on the matter and followed NuBilt to a flooded property to get a first hand look at the action. Watch the interview:

Prevent Mold Now and Breathe Easier When Warmer Weather Arrives

There may be snow outside now, but if your home was flooded recently it could be harboring mold. If your home was flood-damaged during colder months, it’s very important for your property to be thoroughly cleaned now to avoid possible health problems from mold and mildew in the warmer months ahead.

“Mold is a significant problem after flooding and proper cleanup is critical to ensure it doesn’t affect your or your family’s health,” Ohio Department of Health (ODH) Director J. Nick Baird, M.D. said.

Care must be taken to clean and completely dry any areas of the home that have gotten wet from floodwaters to prevent structural damage and adverse health effects from mold.

“People are anxious to get on with their lives after a flood, but if you had flood waters in your home take the time to clean thoroughly so problems don’t arise later that affect your home or your health,” Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Coordinating Officer Ron Sherman said.

Mold growth is a common occurrence in flood-damaged homes. Mold is made up of simple microscopic organisms that are found virtually everywhere. Mold could become a problem in your home if there is enough moisture available to allow mold to thrive and multiply. Dampness in basements, walls, carpets, and wood caused by flooding provides an environment for mold to flourish.

Exposure to high levels of mold can cause adverse health problems. Mold can also cause structural damage to your home. Mold can often be seen in the form of discoloration, ranging from white to orange and from green to brown and black, and it gives off a musty or earthy smell.

For some people, a relatively small number of mold spores can cause health problems. The basic rule is, if you can see or smell mold, take steps to eliminate the excess moisture, and to cleanup and remove the mold. It is important to quickly identify and correct any moisture sources before health problems develop.

Infants, children, immune-compromised patients, pregnant women, individuals with existing respiratory conditions, (allergies, multiple chemical sensitivity, and asthma) and the elderly appear to be at higher risks for adverse health effects from mold.

Allergic reactions may be the most common health problem of mold exposure. Typical symptoms reported (alone or in combination) include:

• Respiratory problems, such as wheezing, and difficulty in breathing
• Nasal and sinus congestion
• Eyes – burning, watery, reddened, blurry vision, light sensitivity
• Dry, hacking cough
• Sore throat
• Nose and throat irritation
• Shortness of breath
• Skin irritation
• Central nervous system problems (constant headaches, memory problems, and mood changes)
• Aches and pains
• Possible fever

For proper cleanup after a flood, disaster recovery officials recommend following these steps:

• Before beginning extensive cleanup work on a flooded home, make sure the electricity is turned off. Unplug appliances and lamps. Remove light bulbs and cover plates of wall switches and outlets that got wet. If local building inspection code allows you to disconnect wiring from switches and outlets, do so and throw them away. If your building inspector says that you cannot disconnect the wiring, pull them forward, away from the wall, and leave them connected.
• Remove as much mud as possible. Once you have checked the water system for leaks, hose down the inside of the house and its contents. It is best to use an attachment that sprays soap to wash and rinse the walls, floors, furniture, sockets, electrical boxes, and other major items that got muddy. Use a non-ammonia soap or detergent, or a commercial cleaner, in hot water, and scrub the entire area affected by the mold. A stiff brush or cleaning pad works well on block walls or uneven surfaces. Rinse clean with water. A wet/dry vacuum is handy for this process.
• Use of a dehumidifier can help dry out the area; open cupboard and closet doors to keep air circulating.
• Remove heating and cooling registers and ducts, then hose them to prevent contamination when blowing through the ducts at a later date. Next, wash with a disinfectant that is Ammonia-derivative, phenolic or pine-oil based. If ducts are in a slab or otherwise inaccessible, have them cleaned professionally.
• Disinfect and dry the moldy area. It is critical to remove the source of moisture, before beginning to cleanup, as mold growth will return, if the area becomes wet again.
• Bag and dispose any material that has moldy residue, such as rags, paper, leaves, or debris. Harder materials such as glass, plastic, or metal can be kept after they are cleaned and disinfected.
• Wear gloves when handling moldy materials.
• Moldy materials should be removed as follows:
  • Remove porous materials (examples: ceiling tiles, drywall, carpeting, wood products)
  • Carpeting can be a difficult problem – drying does not remove the dead mold spores. If there is heavy mold, consider replacing.
  • Allow the area to dry 2 or 3 days.
  • If flooded, remove all drywall to at least 12 inches above the high water mark.
  • Visually inspect the wall interior and remove any other intrusive molds. (This step may have to be carried out by a licensed contractor).
• Use caution, as mold spores are easily released when moldy material is dried out. When cleaning these damaged materials, consider wearing a mask or using a respirator. Respirators can be purchased from hardware stores; select one for particle removal (sometimes referred to as a N95 or TC-21C particulate respirator). Respirators are not as effective removing bleach fumes, so minimize your exposure when using bleach or other disinfectants.
• After thorough cleaning and rinsing, disinfect the area with a solution of 10% household bleach (1 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water). Using bleach straight from the bottle will not be more effective. Never mix bleach with Ammonia – the fumes are toxic. Avoid excessive amounts of runoff or standing bleach. Make sure the working area is well ventilated.
• Try cleaning a small test patch of mold first. If you feel that this adversely affected your health, you should consider paying a licensed contractor or professional to carry out the work.
• General cautions:
  • Ask others to leave the areas when being cleaned.
  • Work over short time spans and rest in a fresh air location.
  • Air your house out well during and after the work.

If mold odors persist, continue to dry out the area and search for any hidden areas of mold. If the area continues to smell musty, you may have to re-clean the area. Continue to dry and ventilate the area. Don’t replace flooring or begin rebuilding until the area has dried completely.

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to water damage related mitigation
(mold remediation, frozen pipe bursts, flooded basements, etc).
Call 303.368.4688.

Source material:
http://www.fema.gov/news/newsrelease.fema?id=11088

AAMD Power Lunch: Legislative Update

WHEN:
02/16/2011
11:30 am – 01:00 pm

DESCRIPTION:
The topic is Legislative Update presented by Greg Brown, V.P. of Government Affairs at NAA, Nancy Burke with NAA, Micki Hackenberger of Axiom Strategies, Brandon Rich of Greystar Real Estate Partners and Meghan Storrie of CAA.

WHERE:
Doubletree Denver Tech
7801 East Orchard Road
Greenwood Village, CO 80111

View Larger Map

Vacation Preparation – Tips to Safeguard Your Home

To endure the winter months, we generally like to use our vacation time to go to a warmer destination. The coldest months of January-March are prime time to leave and head some place south.

When taking vacations for an extended period of time, we still need to be mindful of our properties back home. In fact, due to the season, extra precautions need to be placed to ensure our properties will endure the weather. Often, a homeowner has returned home too late, only to find that an aged washing machine hose or dishwasher part has broken, flooding their home and causing hundreds or even thousands of dollars in damage. So before embarking on that fabulous vacation to the sunny, warm beaches of Florida or Mexico, prepare your property so you do not get any surprise disasters when you return from your travels.

Tips on preventing your pipes from freezing while on vacation:

• Ensure all windows and entry doors are closed tightly including crawl space doors if applicable.
• You must NOT turn the heat off, but turn it down to 55 degrees.
• Do not turn the hot water heater off but rather, setting your hot water heater on the lowest heat setting possible will keep it functioning at a minimum level, while saving you money on your energy bills. Some water heaters have a “vacation” setting which should be utilized.
• Open all kitchen/bathroom cabinet doors under the sink and the door to the water heater closet to ensure circulation of warm air.
• If you are going to be gone for a short period of time and a deep freeze is expected, turn on all hot and cold faucets including bath and kitchen to a slow drip. Tape a note on all dripping faucets reminding others to leave dripping.
• If you are going to be gone for a week or more, shutting the water off to the whole house would be a great precaution. Others have recommended to turn off the water to your sinks, toilets, dishwasher and washing machine.
• Undo all garden hoses from exterior faucets.

Tips on preventing fires while on vacation:

• Unplug electrical equipment, except for the refrigerator, freezer, and the lights and radios you have set on timers.
• Be sure to check the oven and stove, as well as small heat-generating appliances such as hair dryers and curling irons, are turned off.

Depending on where you live, such as an apartment, a flooded kitchen could affect your neighbors’ property. Vice versa, if you know your neighbors are going on vacation during cold weather, you want to make sure their property will endure. When you plan to be away from home during the winter months, it is wise to advise a trustworthy neighbor, your management office and/or even the local police department as some offer a “vacation watch”. If they can monitor your property, it’s an extra way to discover disasters before escalating. By taking the necessary precautions on your property before your travels, you can have peace of mind that your property is cared for and will be kept up just like you left it.

Extra Pre-Vacation Reminders:
http://www.busybeelifestyle.com/pre-vacation-check-list/
http://pecuniarities.com/frugal-travel-begins-before-the-trip-vacation-preparation-checklist/234

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to water damage related mitigation
(ice damming, frozen pipe bursts, flooded basements, etc).
Call 303.368.4688.

Source material:
http://www.libertyproperties.info/tenants/holiday-freeze-warning.php

Prevent Winter Fires – Tips for the Home

The high cost of home heating fuels and utilities have caused many Americans to search for alternate sources of home heating.  The use of woodburning stoves is growing and space heaters are selling rapidly, or coming out of storage.  Fireplaces are burning wood and manmade logs.

All these methods of heating may be acceptable.  They are, however, a major contributing factor in residential fires.  Many of these fires can be prevented.  The following fire safety tips can help you maintain a fire safe home this winter.

Kerosene Heaters

• Be sure that kerosene heaters are legal in your area.
• Be sure your heater is in good working condition.  Inspect exhaust parts for carbon buildup.  Be sure the heater has an emergency shut off in case the heater is tipped over.
• Never use fuel burning appliances without proper room venting.  Burning fuel (coal, kerosene, or propane, for example) can produce deadly fumes.
• Use ONLY the fuel recommended by the heater manufacturer.  NEVER introduce a fuel into a unit not designed for that type fuel.
• Keep kerosene, or other flammable liquids stored in approved metal containers, in well ventilated storage areas, outside of the house.
• NEVER fill the heater while it is operating or hot. When refueling an oil or kerosene unit, avoid overfilling.
• Refueling should be done outside of the home (or outdoors).  Keep young children away from space heaters—especially when they are wearing night gowns or other loose clothing that can be easily ignited.
• When using a fuel burning appliance in the bedroom, be sure there is proper ventilation to prevent a buildup of carbon monoxide.

Wood Stoves and Fireplaces

Wood stoves and fireplaces are becoming a very common heat source in homes.  Careful attention to safety can minimize their fire hazard.

To use Them safely:

• Be sure the fireplace or stove is installed properly.  Wood stoves should have adequate clearance (36”) from combustible surfaces and proper floor support and protection.
• Wood stoves should be of good quality, solid construction and design, and should be laboratory tested.
• Have the chimney inspected annually and cleaned if necessary, especially if it has not been used for some time.
• Do not use flammable liquids to start or accelerate any fire.
• Keep a glass or metal screen in front of the fireplace opening, to prevent embers or sparks from jumping out, unwanted material from going in, and help prevent the possibility of burns to occupants.
• The stove should be burned hot twice a day for 15­30 minutes to reduce the amount of creosote buildup.
• Don’t use excessive amounts of paper to build roaring fires in fireplaces.  It is possible to ignite creosote in the chimney by overbuilding the fire.
• Never burn charcoal indoors.  Burning charcoal can give off lethal amounts of carbon monoxide.
• Keep flammable materials away from your fireplace mantel.  A spark from the fireplace could easily ignite theses materials.
• Before you go to sleep, be sure your fireplace fire is out.  NEVER close your damper with hot ashes in the fireplace.  A closed damper will help the fire to heat up again and will force toxic carbon monoxide into the house.
• If synthetic logs are used, follow the directions on the package.  NEVER break a synthetic log apart to quicken the fire or use more than one log at a time.  They often burn unevenly, releasing higher levels of carbon monoxide.

Furnace Heating

• It is important that you have your furnace inspected to ensure that it is in good working condition.
• Be sure all furnace controls and emergency shutoffs are in proper working condition.
• Leave furnace repairs to qualified specialists.  Do not attempt repairs yourself unless you are qualified. Inspect the walls and ceiling near the furnace and along the chimney line.  If the wall is hot or discolored, additional pipe insulation or clearance may be required.
• Check the flue pipe and pipe seams.  Are they well supported and free of holes and cracks?  Soot along or around seams may be an indicator of a leak.
• Is the chimney solid, with cracks or loose bricks? All unused flue openings should be sealed with solid masonry.
• Keep trash and other combustibles away from the heating system.

Other Fire Safety Tips

Never discard hot ashes inside or near the home.  Place them in a metal container outside and well away from the house.

• Never use a range or an oven as a supplemental heating device.  Not only is it a safety hazard, it can be a source of potentially toxic fumes.
• If you use an electric heater, be sure not to overload the circuit.  Only use extension cords which have the necessary rating to carry an amp load.
  TIP: Choose an extension cord the same size or larger than the appliance electrical cord.
• Avoid using electrical space heaters in bathrooms or other areas where they may come in contact with water.
• Frozen water pipes?  Never try to thaw them with a blow torch or other open flame, otherwise the pipe could conduct the heat and ignite the wall structure inside the wall space.  Use hot water or a laboratory tested device such as a hand held dryer for thawing.
• If windows are used as emergency exits in your home, practice using them in the event fire should strike.  Be sure that all the windows open easily.  Home escape ladders are recommended.
• If there is a fire hydrant near your home you can assist the fire department by keeping the hydrant clear of snow so in the event it is needed, it can be located.

Finally

• Be sure every level of your home has a working smoke alarm, and be sure to check and clean it on a monthly basis.
• Plan and practice a home escape plan with your family.
• Contact your local fire department for advice if you  have a question on home fire safety

Source: http://www.usfa.dhs.gov/

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to fire damage related mitigation (structural collapse, board-ups, shoring, etc.) and restoration requests. Call 303.368.4688.

To read more about how to prevent disasters
in your home, please visit www.NuBilt.com

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8 Ways to Prevent Heavy Snow Damage

Don’t become a victim to heavy snow damage.

Beneath the pristine white blanket of snow lies a very destructive force. Snow can deal as much damage as fires, storms, hurricanes, tornadoes, and blizzards. Heavy snow damage has frozen acres upon acres of agricultural crops, resulted in major car accidents due to the slippery roads, caused severe flooding, and destroyed billions of dollars worth of property.

Don’t become a victim to heavy snow damage. Here is a list of ways on how to protect a home from being damaged by snow.

1. Clear the rooftop of snow. This should be one of the top priorities of homeowners who wish to protect their property from heavy snow damage. Snow that is left to accumulate may cause the entire roof to collapse, and damage ceilings, walls, floors, and furniture inside the house. It may be best to get the help of professional roofing consultants as they know how to safely clear a roof of heavy snow without causing any damage to the rest of the house.
2. Improve the air ventilation in the attic. Maintaining an indoor temperature that is close to the outdoor temperature is vital in that part of the house. If there is no proper ventilation in the attic, the warm air inside can melt the snow on the roof and cause ice dams to form. Ice dams are one of the most common problems during winter and they can seriously cause heavy snow damage to a home.
3. Ensure that all gutters and drains are clean and free from dirt. Melted snow needs to properly drain from the roof to prevent new snow from building up and causing heavy snow damage. If snow is allowed to form in the gutters, they can slowly seep through the roofing material and cause damage to the inside of the house.
4. Also make sure that gutters and drains are connected firmly to the house. If not, these can easily fall under the weight of accumulated snow. Unstable gutters are highly accident prone as they can hit a window, a car, or even a person if they detach from the roof.
5. Remove snow from doors and windows as well. Do not let snow collect on their openings. If windows and doors start to let water and moisture into the house, repair their sealants immediately. Pay extra attention to doors and windows that are facing directly against the snow and the wind as these are more prone to heavy snow damage.
6. Clear the area around exhaust pipes and air vents on heaters and furnaces. They should not be blocked by snow, leaves, and any other debris.
7. Keep water moving within pipes to prevent them from freezing. Do this by letting the hot and cold water faucets drip overnight. A tiny trickle or a slow drip is all that is needed.
8. Watch out for snow-covered trees that are surrounding the house. They can also cause heavy snow damage to a home. If the accumulated snow becomes too heavy for the tree branches, they can break and fall onto nearby house structures.

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to snow damage related mitigation (structural collapse, board-ups, shoring, etc.) and repair requests. Call 303.368.4688.

Source: The Restoration Resource

40 Steps to Winterize Your Home Inside & Out

Time to start winterizing your property

It’s hard to believe we’re already telling you to winterize your house. Weren’t we just complaining about sweating our hind-ends off? Autumn began last week and already it feels like winter is blustering its way around the corner.

Before autumn’s golden leaves turn to winter-white snowdrifts, there’s plenty of general maintenance and insulating work to be done on every square foot of your property. From prepping the lawn and garden to wrapping water pipes in the basement to checking the insulation in the attic, an ounce of prevention in the fall will avoid a pound of cure later.

While the following 40 steps may seem overwhelming, many of the chores are small and can be divided up between family members or delegated to professionals. Start on them this weekend and you’ll avoid winterization work in wicked temperatures.

WEATHERPROOF INSIDE

1. Run an Energy Audit
Many city and county agencies offer free or inexpensive energy audits in which experts use special equipment and training to identify problem areas. Depending on your income, some of these programs offer reduced or free assistance and materials.

It’s possible last year’s popular Cash for Caulkers program may return to provide taxpayers with cash for winterizing upgrades. If passed by the Senate and signed by President Obama, the Home Star Energy Retrofit Act will provide qualified homeowners with up to $8,000 in Caulkers rebates.

2. Locate Drafts
If you don’t want to run a full energy audit, you can check for drafts without complex equipment. To locate drafts before chilly winds set in, point a small fan at the cracks outside each door and window. On the inside, have a second person hold a lit candle or a coat hanger with plastic wrap draped over it. Any flickering or fluttering indicates a wind-effect leak that you’ll need to treat by adding weatherstripping or caulk. (Don’t forget to check the garage door.) For specifics on weather stripping, caulking and other small projects, check out DoItYourself.com.

3. Seek Escaping Heat
Once you’ve turned on the furnace, make sure heat isn’t leaking out these same cracks. Run your hand on the exterior side of window and door edges to feel for escaping heat. If your hand warms up, it’s time to tighten things up.

4. Check Attic Access Panels
Checking attic doors for drafts is a natural, but we often forget to inspect access panels for problems. Look for open floor joist ends in kneewall attics and keep an eye out for dirty insulation. This can be a telltale sign of an air leak. The fiberglass insulation filters out the dirt as air passes through it. But if it’s not trapping air, it’s not insulating. Replace insulation around the access panel.

5. Add Weather Stripping
The best way to combat the cold creeping in front door and window cracks is with a trusty roll of weather stripping. It looks like glorified foam tape. Check with your local hardware store or home center to learn what type of stripping is best for each surface, as you’ll probably need more than one roll.

6. Caulk Cracks
Depending on where the opening is located, you may want to use either an expandable foam sealant or caulk to crack down on the cracks. Caulk works best around windowsills and electrical plates, while expanding foam does well in larger cracks not directly exposed to water and sunlight.

Plasticize Windows

7. Plasticize Windows
Storm window kits are a great way to insulate windows when you can’t afford or aren’t able to replace leaky storms. You can buy kits from a local hardware store for less than $20 for three to four windows (depending on size) and apply directly to the inside of your window. The kit includes a plastic film that attaches with double-sticky tape and flattens when you apply a hairdryer.

8. Insulate With Drapes
Hanging heavy-duty curtains will prevent the drafty cold from invading the house and keep in any warmth generated by summer daylight. It may not allow as much natural light, but you won’t have to sport a parka indoors.

9. Manage Sun Exposure
Keep window shades, blinds or curtains open during the day to take advantage of solar heat and close them in the evening to retain that heat.

Roof and Wall Insulation

10. Roof and Wall Insulation
It’s nice to have a roof over your head, but you need a bit more than wood and shingles to protect against winter winds. Inspect the area below your roof to see if you have at least six inches of insulation. Keep in mind the original insulation packs down over time, just like quilting, and will require a supplement.

Unless you’re seasoned homeowner with the necessary skills, it pays to hire a professional. You can save some cash by serving as an assistant, but you’ll want their professional know-how to do the job properly. While you have the expert in your home, have them examine between the walls. Some older homes were built with no insulation between the exterior surface and sheet rock, making it a virtual peg board for air to circulate in and out at will.

11. Prep the Furnace
Hire an expert to inspect and tune-up your furnace every few years. Clean or replace the air filters every three months — more if you have very hairy pets or severe allergies. Changing filters is inexpensive and a huge energy saver, not to mention it reduces dust throughout the home.

12. Clean Vents
Regularly check for dirty and blocked heating vents. Use a vacuum hose to clean out as much dust and detritus as possible. Check back every few months for any build up. If you find extensive dirt, it’s time to change the filter or have your furnace checked by an expert.

Install a Programmable Thermostat

13. Install a Programmable Thermostat
This handy device allows you to program varying temperatures at different times of the day, giving you greater control over energy use and comfort without having to depend on your memory. Inexpensive thermostats are available with Home Depot free shipping codes.

A programmable thermostat is particularly handy to warm things up before you get out of bed or return home in the evening. Most of these thermostats have a manual override, so you can make short-term adjustments on extremely cold days. Make sure your thermostat is properly located, neither too near a heat or cold source or on an outside wall, as this cause the furnace to turn on more frequently than is necessary.

14. Adjust the Thermostat
Now that you have a programmable thermostat, it’s time to turn the controls to winter levels. Set it around 68 degrees to 70 degrees when home, and 60 degrees at night or when you’re not home. If you’re going to be away from the house for an extended period of time, set the temperature at 58 degrees. It doesn’t take long to heat your home back to your preferred temperature.

15. Buy Space Heaters (Before They’re Out of Stock)
Oil-filled space heaters can heat smaller rooms much more cheaply than a furnace. They also make inexpensive supplements to alternative energy sources. I highly recommend Delonghi’s line of oil-filled radiators. They’re energy efficient, sturdy, portable, programmable and available with the Amazon free shipping offer.

Draft snakes, or Draft Stoppers

16. Break Out The Draft Snakes
Draft snakes, or draft stoppers, are long tubes that serve as added insulation at the bottom of a door on the inside of the house. While most people use snakes on doors leading to the outside, they also come in handy if you turn down the heat at night and don’t want heat leaking out of your bedroom. I use a space heater to warm up my room at night and in the morning, so a draft sock makes sure that extra bit of heat stays put. Check out Nature Mom’s simple directions for making your own no-sew draft snake.

17. Close Off Unused Rooms
Even residents of small houses don’t use every room all the time. Closing off the heat outlets in unused spaces will reduce your energy bill by that much square footage. Remember to use a draft snake at the foot of each door to avoid heat leaking from the central part of the house. You can always reopen the furnace access or use a space heater when it’s time to use the room again.

18. Call The Chimney Sweep
Chimneys and fireplaces require occasional inspections and cleanings by professionals because flues lined with creosote are fire hazardous. Make sure the condition of the spark arrestor on top of the chimney is inspected so that there are no tears in the fabric that would allow embers to escape, also becoming a fire hazard.

Typical costs run anywhere from $75 to $200, depending on the size of the job. A do-it-yourself kit costs about $30 for a masonry chimney and $40 for a metal chimney, but you’ll also need a shop vac, ladder, scrubbing brush, safety goggles, stiff scrubbing brush, dust mask and drop cloths. (That professional chimney sweep is looking better all the time.)

19. Remove Window Air Conditioners
This is a no-brainer, but it’s still worth mentioning. Before you store portable a/c units, give them a thorough cleaning so dirt doesn’t turn permanent over the winter.

PROTECT YOUR WATER SYSTEM

Protect your water system

20. Wrap Your Water Heater
If you insulate your water-heater tank with a fiberglass blanket, you can reduce heat loss by 25 to 45 percent and save 4 percent to 9 percent on your water heating bill. Purchase these blankets for $20 to $30 at your local hardware store or through your utility company. Ace Hardware free shipping codes will get you a quality blanket at a reasonable price from a locally owned franchise.

It’s particularly important to avoid blocking air intakes and exhaust vents on gas water heaters and thermostat-access panels on electric heaters. Newer models may not require blankets as they already are well insulated, so check your manual before you buy.

21. Insulate Water Pipes
Protect your pipes early to prevent freezing by wrapping them in foam-rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation. For extra protection in unheated areas, wrap pipes with special heating strips before adding outer insulation.

Lower Water Temperatures

22. Lower Water Temperatures
Your hot-water heater is probably turned higher than necessary. Most heaters are set at 140 F, which you only really need if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater. Turn the temp down to 120 F (the medium setting on a gas-heater dial) and you’ll reduce your water-heating costs 6 percent to 10 percent. Remember many electric water heaters have both an upper and lower thermostat to adjust. Remember to turn the electricity off at the circuit break before making adjustments.

During especially long and cold spells, leave one of your faucets open and running just slightly. This should be the faucet located farthest from your home’s water supply. Running water is less liable to freeze and the flow should also thaw any water that has already frozen in the pipes. It might be a waste of water, but in extreme cases it’s a better alternative than a frozen, busted pipe on a freezing winter night.

23. Turn Off Exterior Faucets
Locate the interior turnoff valve for faucets attached to the outside of your home and completely turn it off until warm weather returns. If you don’t have such a switch, you should seriously consider installing one to avoid future problems. After you’ve switched the valve shut, open the outside valve to drain out the remaining water so it doesn’t freeze up inside the pipe.

PUT YOUR YARD TO BED

24. Blow Out Your Sprinkler System
Simply draining your sprinkler system won’t prevent freezing and damage. To completely winterize the system, you must blow the system clear of all water. This can be done by manually draining the system and then using an air compressor to entirely remove any remaining water. If you haven’t used an air compressor before, get assistance from someone with experience so you don’t damage the system.

Clean Out Gutters

25. Clean Out Gutters
Yuck. Nobody wants to deal with this job but full gutters can lead to interior leaks, rotting wood and slippery concrete. Clean the gutters of summer gunk then repeat several times in the fall, as autumn leaves and twigs build up over time.

26. De-Leaf The Lawn
Those leaves may look pretty on your lawn, but they’ll suffocate the soil, dry up the grass and make it prone to snow-mold disease. Rake deep into the soil to remove thatch so grass roots can continue to grow in preparation for winter.

27. Keep Mowing
Snow and ice will flatten grass that’s been left too long, resulting in dry grass and snow-mold disease, so keep mowing regularly until the first frost. Don’t cut your lawn down more than 2 inches to 2-1/2 inches.

28. Fertilize The Lawn
While it may seem strange to fertilize and reseed your lawn in the fall, grass needs tending loving care before it hibernates. Feed it once in early fall and again in late October. Such nutrients as phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium will go straight to the roots and convert into food reserves for a quick start in the spring

29. Weed One Last Time
Garden and flower-bed weeds left to produce seeds in the fall will return a hundred-fold next spring. You can try weed-control products but pulling, digging and forking out weeds may be more effective as temperatures drop.

Prune Shrubs and Trees

30. Prune Shrubs and Trees
Prune shrubs and trees back to encourage healthy growth in the spring. Most of the pruning should be done after the leaves have changed color as this signifies the plant is dormant. When you’re pruning, make a clear cut about 1/4 inch from the branch at a slight angle. Check your state Extension’s website for details on pruning specific plants in your region.

31. Wrap ‘Em Up
Protect sensitive and young shrubs and trees by wrapping them in burlap and spreading a layer of mulch around the base for insulation against freezing temperatures.

32. Clean The Beds
Remove any unwanted debris under shrubs, roses and trees to reduce the risk of disease and prevent pests from overwintering in your yard.

Plant Bulbs

33. Plant Bulbs
Autumn is also the best time to start planting new flower and garlic bulbs for the spring. This gives plant root systems several months to grow and become strong before the soil cools. Common bulbs planted in the fall for spring blossoming include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, muscari, crocuses and such perennials as peonies, daylilies, hostas and coral-bells.

34. Trim Back Trees
Winter storms fell many of the hardiest branches if they’re surrounded by dead wood. Trimming is particularly important for limbs near power lines, the roof of your house and the driveway.

Although homeowners can handle the smaller, accessible limbs, hire an expert to remove larger dead limbs. Ask several tree trimmers for estimates before you place your order. This isn’t a cheap chore but it only needs to be completed every few years and is much less expensive than losing your roof to a giant winter storm.

35. Now You Can Mulch
Pile mulch around bulbs, roses, trees and shrubs to a depth of 6 inches to 8 inches or more. Mulching adds a layer of insulation on top of the soil, preventing sudden temperature changes from freezing or thawing plants, which can destroy tender root systems.

Use organic matter that remains loose and will not pack down to suffocate your plants. This might include dried leaves, clean straw, chopped dead tops from other perennials, or pruned evergreen boughs.

36. Prep Your Yard Tools
Besides preparing your garden to sleep for the winter, it’s a good idea to care for your gardening tools before laying them aside.

• Mower: Once the mowing season is over, change the oil in the mower, edger and trimmer. Drain the gas tank or add a few drops of a stabilizing agent to the tank to keep the gas from getting old. Sharpen the blade or take it to a hardware store for sharpening.
• Garden Tools: Clean, sharpen and apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust.
• Water Hoses: Drain hoses, coil them up and store where hoses won’t freeze and crack, just in case some water remains. If you need to water again during a dry winter, make sure you repeat this process when done.
• Bird Baths: Empty water from bird baths to keep them from cracking. You might clean out bird houses at the same time to prep them for spring nesting.

Find your shovels

37. Unearth Winter Tools
Make sure you have a good snow shovel or two and sharpen their edges, if possible. Stock your home with rock salt and sand for icy surfaces. Place car window ice scrapers in the cars, along with small bags or rock salt or sand for emergencies. (This is a good time to update your emergency auto kit.)

38. Make Your Doorstep Welcoming
Lay out mats or rugs at the exterior and interior of your doors to protect the floors. Place a boot tray or other water-proof container by the door for storage of wet-boots and shoes.

39. Winterize Pools
If you’re lucky enough to have an outdoor pool, drain the water and have a professional pool cleaner come by to clean and winterize it. The pool should be covered with a strong cover to keep out leaves, precipitation and animals during the winter months.

40. Compost Prep
Fall is the time to gather fallen leaves for leaf-mold compost. If your yard doesn’t yield sufficient leaves, check Freecycle.org. You should find several listings of people willing to pass on their excessive piles. If you have too many leaves of your own, consider creating your own give-away post.

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to water damage related mitigation (flooded basements, pipe bursts) and repair requests. Call 303.368.4688.

About the author
Kate Forgach attended the first Earth Day at an early age. She learned to re-use tin foil and recycle buttons from parents raised during the Great Depression. Today, she has upgraded to recycling electronics, organizing Earth Day events and hoping her parents would be proud.

Source: Free shipping http://www.freeshipping.org/blog/40-steps-to-winterize-your-home-inside-and-out/

Living in Colorado’s Wildland Fire Hazard Areas

Colorado's Wildland Fire Hazard Areas

More and more people are building and buying homes in Colorado’s forested/wildland areas. These areas often have poor access for emergency vehicles, little or no fire fighting water supplies, native and wild vegetation, and steep slopes.

It’s up to the homeowner to help mitigate against potential loss of life, property, and valuables. As a homeowner in what we call the wildland/urban interface area, you should be aware of wildfire hazards and what to do when a wildfire starts.

Defensible space is an area of 30 feet or more around your home that is kept free of features that tend to increase the risk of your home being destroyed.

10 Steps to Defensible Space

1. Thin tree and brush cover.
2. Dispose of slash and debris left from thinning.
3. Remove dead limbs, leaves and other litter.
4. Stack firewood away from home.
5. Maintain irrigated green belt around the home.
6. Mow dry grasses and weeds.
7. Prune branches to 10 feet above the ground.
8. Trim branches.
9. Clean roof and gutters.
10. Reduce density of surrounding forest.

Other improvements include improving driveway access and water supplies, having a fire-resistive roof, enclosing overhanging eaves and decks, spark arrestors on chimneys, etc.

Develop a Fire Plan
Ask your local fire department for advice. Talk with your neighbors about tools, equipment and other resources you could share in an emergency.

What you’ll need:

• Evacuation Plan. Early evacuation is the safest way to avoid injury or death. Timing and other factors can vary so widely that each household needs its own specific plan, including options to cover anything that might happen.
• Escape Routes. Normal and alternate escape routes.
• Safety Zones. Locations of and routes to large areas with little or no vegetation or other fuels where family members can ride out the fire if it’s too late to evacuate.
• Communication Plan. Pre-arrange normal and alternate ways to stay in touch with family members, even if phones are out. Family members might “check in” with a friend or relative in another area as soon as they’re able.
• Assignments. Who is to do what when in an emergency

Equipment you may need:

• Hoses. Pre-connected to faucets.
• Ladder. Long enough to reach the roof easily.
• Fire Extinguishers. One or more 5-pound multipurpose type, readily available.
• Protective Clothing. For anyone who is unable to evacuate before the fire arrives. This includes a cotton long-sleeved shirt or jacket and trousers, a handkerchief to provide minimum protection for the lungs (avoid inhaling smoke or hot gases!), or leather boots, gloves, a helmet or other head covering and glasses or goggles. Cotton clothing is a “must.” Synthetic fabrics can melt onto your skin.

When caught in a wildfire:
If you see a wildfire, call 911. Don’t assume that someone else has already called. Describe the location of the fire, speak slowly and clearly, and answer any questions asked by the dispatcher.

Before the fire approaches your house:

• Evacuate. Evacuate your pets and all family members who are not essential to preparing the home. Anyone with medical or physical limitations and the young and the elderly should be evacuated immediately.
• Wear Protective Clothing.
  
• Remove Combustibles. Clear items that will burn from around the house, including wood piles, lawn furniture, barbecue grills, tarp coverings, etc. Move them outside of your defensible space.
• Close/Protect Openings. Close outside attic, eaves and basement vents, windows, doors, pet doors, etc. Remove flammable drapes and curtains. Close all shutters, blinds or heavy non-combustible window coverings to reduce radiant heat.
• Close Inside Doors/Open Damper. Close alt doors inside the house to prevent draft. Open the damper on your fireplace, but close the fireplace screen.
• Shut Off Gas. Shut off any natural gas, propane or fuel oil supplies at the source.
• Water. Connect garden hoses. Fill any pools, hot tubs, garbage cans, tubs or other large containers with water.
• Pumps. If you have gas-powered pumps for water, make sure they are fueled and ready.
• Ladder. Place a ladder against the house in clear view.
• Car. Back your car into the driveway and roll up the windows.
• Garage Doors. Disconnect any automatic garage door openers so that doors can still be opened by hand if the power goes out. Close all garage doors.
• Valuables. Place valuable papers, mementos and anything “you can’t live without” inside the car in the garage, ready for quick departure. Any pets still with you should also be put in the car.

When you leave, remember

• Lights. Turn on outside lights and leave a light on in every room to make the house more visible in heavy smoke.
• Don’t Lock Up. Leave doors and windows closed but unlocked. It may be necessary for firefighters to gain quick entry into your home to fight fire. The entire area will be isolated and patrolled by sheriff’s deputies or police.

If you’re in a car

• This is dangerous and should only be done in an emergency, but you can survive the firestorm if you stay in your car. It is much less dangerous than trying to run from a fire on foot.
• Roll up windows and close air vents. Drive slowly with headlights on. Watch for other vehicles and pedestrians. Do not drive through heavy smoke.
• If you have to stop, park away from the heaviest trees and brush. Turn headlights on and ignition off. Roll up windows and close air vents.
• Get on the floor and cover up with a blanket or coat.
• Stay in the vehicle until the main fire passes.
• Stay in the car. Do not run! Engine may stall and not restart. Air currents may rock the car. Some smoke and sparks may enter the vehicle. Temperature inside will increase. Metal gas tanks and containers rarely explode.

If you’re trapped in your house

Stay calm. As the fire front approaches, go inside the house. You can survive inside. The fire will pass before your house burns down.

After the fire passes

• Check the roof immediately. Put out any roof fires, sparks or embers. Check the attic for hidden burning sparks.
• If you have a fire, get your neighbors to help fight it.
• The water you put into your pool or hot tub and other containers wilt come in handy now. If the power is out, try connecting a hose to the outlet on your water heater.
• For several hours after the fire, maintain a “fire watch.” Re-check for smoke and sparks throughout the house.

If you are caught in the open

The best temporary shelter is in a sparse fuel area. On a steep mountainside, the back side is safer. Avoid canyons, natural “chimneys” and saddles.

If a road is nearby, lie face down along the road cut or in the ditch on the uphill side. Cover yourself with anything that will shield you from the fire’s heat.

If hiking in the back country, seek a depression with sparse fuel. Clear fuel away from the area while the fire is approaching and then lie face down in the depression and cover yourself. Stay down until after the fire passes!

NuBilt is always ready 24/7 to respond to smoke and fire related mitigation and repair requests. Call 303.368.4688.

Article republished from the Colorado Division of Emergency Management .